Tashi Sherpa is a 10 times Everest Summiteer who was born on April 18,1979. I am a mountaineer who has been in the mountaineering field for many years. I am also the member of First Nepalese team to reach the 20,310-foot(6190m) summit of Mt. Denali via the West Rib route on 22 June 2016 at 10 pm(Alaska Local Time).My grandfather Phura Kipa Sherpa was a highly experienced Khumbu Icefall sardar(guide) on my grandfather time.(Thanks to Sir Chris Bonington for providing me the photo of my grandfather.)The occupation of mountaineering had been in practice from my grandfather to my father Phura Temba Sherpa and to me.
So I started the trekking field from 14 years old as porter and cook staff. After working for 4 years on trekking field then I was interested on mountaineering field. As my whole family was on the same field and they were even impressed my by hard work in trekking field. So on 1998 my uncle Dorjee Sherpa took me for climbing Mera Peak(6400m) as a climbing sherpa which was my first success summit on peak. This was a great achievement for me and thanks to my uncle who took me for climbing Mera Peak as on those days it was very difficult to find for the work of climbing sherpa as there used to be very less expedition on those days. So on the same year my uncle gave me again one expedition for Mt. Cho oyu(8201m) which was my first over 8000m mountain experience. So on September,1998 I summited Cho oyu with a 60 years old client which was also my second great achievement.
So after climbing these two mountain than I have got some knowledge and technique to climb mountain on 18 years old. Than after these achievement I had more interest for climbing more mountains. So I keep on working hard on these field. On 1999 and 2000 I went to summit the Mt Everest but it was unsuccessful due to the bad weather. As those days there wasn’t the technology for forecasting the weather and even there wasn’t good communication. But I hadn’t lost my hope for the summit again so On 2001 I went for the summit Everest than on May 22,2001 I had successfully summited the Mt. Everest for the first time which was a great achievement for my mountaineering career.
Than after this, I went for 2 or 3 expedition every years. After a good success in each year I got a chance to explore a new peak Friendship peak(6590m) with the coordination of Nepal and China government on 2005 which was successful.
Similarly on 2008 I summited Mt Everest for 4 times with 75 years old clients Miura who is famous in the world as the most oldest person to climb Mt. Everest.
On 2012 I was a guide of Chinese and Sweden group to Mt. Manaslu(8163m) in which a destroying avalanche occurred when we were on Camp 2. As the avalanche started from below Camp 4 which swept all the Camp 3 group. As I was on Camp 2 so there was little effect of avalanche in my camp but we weren’t harm by that. As all the group of Camp 3 were swept till Camp 2 so I took my team sherpa for the rescue of Camp 3 group member. So we did rescue from 5 am- 3pm for 31 people in which 10 was found died whereas 2 were missing and 19 was injured badly and we contact immediately for the helicopter rescue for the injured person and pick up the dead bodies. So I left the Manaslu Expedition unsuccessful and return back.
After the mega earthquake on 25th,26th April and 12th May destroyed many places in Nepal. But there are many places in Nepal which are not destroyed and many places which are reconstructed already. Lots of fake news are out about Nepal. In fact Nepal is still very safe to climb, trek and tour. Their success will help world’s climbers to believe for safe climbing in Nepal again. To show Nepal is still safe for climbing and Trekking after earthquake 2015 so they(Tashi Sherpa,Nima Tenji Sherpa and Dawa Gyalje Sherpa) made plan for The First Nepalese Team in Rolwaling for First Ascent to successfully complete 3 new peak ascents. So they had summited Mt Raungsiyar on 4th October at 3:15pm, Mt Langdak on 5th October 11:45am and Thakar-Go East on 6th October at 11:30am.
On 22 June 2016 at 10 pm(Alaska Local Time), Tashi Sherpa,Nima Tenji Sherpa and Tenzeeng Sherpa summited the 20,310-foot(6190m) summit of Mt. Denali via the West Rib route. They were not able to summit the Mt. Denali through Cassin Route due to the bad weather, heavy snowfall and fear of occurring avalanche. After waiting for 3-4 days for good weather and trying different and many way they were not successful so they decided to climb the Mt. Denali via West Rib and succeeded so they have became the First Nepalese team to reach Mt. Denali via the West Rib.
On 25 June 2016 Nima Tenji sherpa and Tashi Sherpa made a second summit on Mt. Denali via West buttress with the beyond the Himalayas team.
Altogether 8 Nepalese summit Mt, Denali from the team this year. Whole team were safely back from mountain on 27 June, 2016.
Certificate for being the First Nepalese Team to summit Mt. Denali via the West Rib and West Buttress