I am Tashi Sherpa born on April 18,1979 in Namche,Nepal. I belong to a climbing background and i have been in the mountaineering field for nearly 20 years. Till now I have summited Mt. Everest for 10 times and other different above 8000m mountains along with mountains below 8000m. I was also the member of First Nepalese team to reach the 20,310-foot(6190m) summit of Mt. Denali via the West Rib route on 22 June 2016 at 10 pm(Alaska Local Time).Basically my grandfather Phura Kipa Sherpa was a highly experienced Khumbu Icefall sardar(guide) on his days.(Thanks to Sir Chris Bonington for providing me the photo of my grandfather)In my family the occupation of mountaineering had been in practice from my grandfather to my father Phura Temba Sherpa and to me.
I started working in the trekking from 14 years old as porter and cook staff. After working for 4 years in trekking then I was interested on climbing mountains. As my whole family was on the same field and they were even impressed by my work in trekking. So in 1998 my uncle Dorjee Sherpa took me for climbing Mera Peak(6400m) as a climbing sherpa which was my first summit on a peak. This was a very good achievement for me and I am very thankful to my uncle who took me for climbing Mera Peak as on those days it was very difficult to find for the work of climbing sherpa because of very less expedition on those days. So on the same year my uncle again took me for next expedition of Mt. Cho oyu(8201m) which was my first above 8000m mountain experience. So on September,1998 I summited Cho oyu with a 60 years old client.
After climbing these two mountain, I got some knowledge and technique to climb mountain in 18 years old. Than after these achievement I began to gain more interest for climbing mountains. So I keep on working for months and months. In 1999 and 2000 I went for Everest expedition. But in this both years I couldn’t summit Mt. Everest due to the bad weather and less knowledge about it. As those days there wasn’t the technology for forecasting the weather and even there wasn’t good communication devices. But I didn’t lose my hope. After getting a chance on 2001 Everest expedition, I successfully summited Mt. Everest on May 22,2001 which was a great achievement for me.
Than after 2001, I regularly went for 2 or 3 expedition each years. After a good success in each year, in 2005 I got a chance to explore a new peak, Friendship peak(6590m) with the coordination of Nepal and China government on 2005 which was successful.
Similarly in 2008 I summited Mt Everest for 4 times with 75 years old clients, Miura who is known in the world as the oldest person to climb Mt. Everest.
In 2012 I was a guide of Chinese and Sweden group to Mt. Manaslu(8163m) in which a destroying avalanche occurred when i was on Camp 2. As the avalanche started from below Camp 4 which swept all the Camp 3 group. Since I was on Camp 2 so there was little effect of avalanche in my camp but we weren’t harm by that. As all the group of Camp 3 were swept till Camp 2 so I took my team’s sherpa with other mountaineers present there for the rescue of Camp 3 group member. So we did rescue from 5 am- 3pm for 31 people in which 10 was found died whereas 2 were missing and 19 was injured badly and we immediately contact the helicopter company to rescue for the injured person and pick up the dead bodies. So I left the Manaslu Expedition unsuccessful and returned back.
Similarly after the mega earthquake on 25th,26th April and 12th May destroyed many places in Nepal. Lots of fake news were out about Nepal. In fact Nepal was still very safe to climb, trek and tour. So I with my friends made a plan to show Nepal was still safe for climbing and trekking after earthquake of 2015. We(Tashi Sherpa,Nima Tenji Sherpa and Dawa Gyalje Sherpa) made a team named The First Nepalese Team in Rolwaling for First Ascent to successfully complete 3 new peak ascents in 3 days. So we had summited Mt Raungsiyar on 4th October at 3:15pm, Mt Langdak on 5th October 11:45am and Thakar-Go East on 6th October at 11:30am.
On 22 June 2016 at 10 pm(Alaska Local Time), I(Tashi Sherpa),Nima Tenji Sherpa and Tenzeeng Sherpa summited the 20,310-foot(6190m) summit of Mt. Denali via the West Rib route. As per the aim we were not able to summit the Mt. Denali through Cassin Route due to the bad weather, heavy snowfall and fear of occurring avalanche. After waiting for 3-4 days for good weather and trying different way we were not successful so we decided to climb the Mt. Denali via West Rib and succeeded so we have became the First Nepalese team to reach Mt. Denali via the West Rib.
On 25 June 2016 Nima Tenji sherpa and I(Tashi Sherpa) made a second summit on Mt. Denali via West buttress with the beyond the Himalayas team.
Altogether 8 Nepalese summited Mt. Denali from the team in 2016. Whole team were safely back from mountain on 27 June, 2016.
Certificate for being the First Nepalese Team to summit Mt. Denali via the West Rib and West Buttress